Surfing came along in my life when I needed a change of scenery. Though I’d always dreamed of doing it, I started late, at the ripe age of 25. At that point, I was kind of stuck in a rut. But the sense of escape surfing brought was exhilarating. Being in the city kept my troubles close by; but on the open road that led to the sea, I was a free man on an adventure. I’d board the bus in Manila late at night, and 300km later, arrive at La Union before sunrise. In four short years, I’ve made that trip so often that LU has become my second home, I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve headed up there.
My two girls enjoying the sunset and surf a few months back.
Things surfing has taught me:
- You mess up a lot, and will look like an idiot often. This can last for years. That’s OK, as long as you learn from mistakes… and have fun.
- Labor very hard for a few seconds of satisfaction. That one moment is worth all the work.
- Sometimes you have to get out of your routine and just hit the road.
- The elements will show you no mercy. Be smart and find a way to survive; and maybe one day you can thrive in the chaos.
- Be humble. Challenge yourself; but stay within your ability.
- Spend your money on what enriches you.
- Think about others. Help them if they need it.
- Be patient.
- Be content with the conditions you have—a day at the sea is never a waste!
- If it’s a bad day, don’t worry. There will be another day, and more waves!
I think it’s pretty cool how the lessons I’ve learned on the road and in the water hold true in areas of my life like family, work and even faith. There’s a lot more to say, and I’ll probably be talking about those lessons for years to come. This list is just off the top of my head!
Thanks to surfing, I can attest to the truth of this psalm from scripture: “The voice of the Lord is over the waters.” (Psalm 29:3)